Photography That Loves You Back

It sounds so cliche when people tell me how their time in Nepal “changed their lives”. But I cannot think of any photographer who visited the Himalayas and didn’t return home renewed with inspiration for their craft and humanity itself. The more you give yourself over to the art of photography in Nepal, the more it gives you back a little love.

I’m in Nepal right now, having just finished my annual Nepal Photo Tour with a lovely group of people. Nothing is easy in this country and running a tour here demands a lot of flexibility. There’s a surprise around every corner, and mostly that’s a good thing! School kids taking to the streets with drums to celebrate another Hindu holiday, Newari coffee shops that blend tradition with caffeine, Sadus performing rituals on the shores of a river, or remote temples where we meet monks learning photography in their own special way.

Nepal is one of those places I feel I offer value, having travelled here since 2010. It still surprises me, but I feel I can navigate through the chaos and share a few gems here. I love the mix of Buddhist and Hindu temples, the tasty curries and the buffalo curd at breakfast. I love the indulgence of Masala Chai at every roadside stop, to sweeten the day just that little bit more. I love the hustle of Kathmandu’s old town, and the serenity of the Annapurna Ranges.

And I love that people still come up to us and ask to have their photo taken.

I am a shy person by nature, so taking portraits of strangers was something I had to step out of my comfort zone for. Nepal makes that process easier than any other place in the world. I can totally be an introvert here, yet still take gentle steps forward to engage with the locals. Indeed that tendency to watch and wait before rushing through a scene can serve you well in photography. Over the years I have gained a reputation for portrait work on my travels, and yet I feel this may reflect more the beauty of the country than my own talent.

Festivals are a major treat at this time of year. Diwali has been going for five days now and each day there’s something a little but unique on offer. Yesterday the old town of Kathmandu was gridlocked by drums and music and celebrations on the streets. Simple joy, turned into song and dance. For monks in the Buddhist temples there are celebrations too, in the form of prayer and chanting. They have a few drums too but it’s a more low key expression.

A lot of folks think you have to go trekking to enjoy Nepal, but for over a decade I’ve found ways to explore the scenery without the need for tents or trekking poles. Often the best temples are placed on the top of a big hill, so there’s always a bit of walking required, but every night we have a clean bed and enjoy hot meals at the dinner table. I love being able to share Nepal with travellers who thought it might be too difficult. I love making this part of the world possible for photographers.

There’s one more special ingredient in Nepal that many people overlook, but it’s an ever present joy. Light. The winter light in the mountains, the filtered dawn light at Swayambunath, the fading pink twilight at Boudhanath, the butter lamps in Kagbeni Gompa, the afternoon glow at Asan Bazaar, the fairy lights of Kathmandu and the “festival of lights” at Diwali. There’s so much lovely light to play with in Nepal.

We talk a lot about light on these tours. I start the trips with a few special presentations, and “light” is usually my first pick. Taking control of the light and paying attention to when it’s giving you some love is really my biggest skill with a camera. Cameras see light, not subjects. Whatever light you enjoy, there’s going to be something to fill your heart with in Nepal.

In the same way that cameras see light, not subjects, as a photographer we need to try and see people, not subjects. It’s not just about “the shot I want”, but a chance to share a lovely moment with a stranger. A chance to share your love of photography and make a total stranger feel a little bit special.

Every year we come back to Nepal with printed photos from the last trip, and the responses are magical. It seems like such a small offering, but for the recipient of a photo it can be genuinely touching. Photography at it’s best is much more than a “capture” or “taking” a photo... It’s a conversation. And maybe the start of many conversations. When we share your photos with the people in them we open a door to many more conversations, and a chance for a little of that love you feel for the craft to come back to you.

And photography in Nepal is full of moments when you can feel a little of that love coming back. If you want to learn more about why the photography in Nepal is so special, please take a look at my Photo Essays or the tour brochure for 2025. Nepal is ready when you are!

– Ewen

ewenbell.com/nepal